FACES & PLACES
LOCAL COLOR
SEPTEMBER 2007

Major Appetites Quelled Along the Delaware River at
the Logan Inn of New Hope, Pa
by Susan Sandor

The long established Logan Inn of New Hope, Pennsylvania has undergone a makeover. Not aesthetically, (this historical landmark was meticulously refurbished about 6 years ago), but gastronomically, much to the joy of local foodies who are returning to a completely new dining experience under the ownership of Chef Pete Gialias.

There is however one subtle ambient change that should be mentioned. Tables are now adorned with white tablecloths and linen napkins, even on the outdoor terrace, which is a welcoming transformation.

Gialias, who hails from the Greek Island of Chios in the Aegean Sea, began his lifelong career as a chef when he was in his teens by cooking on the Chandris Line of Ships in exchange for room and board. His choice of employment disheartened his father. Unlike today’s revered chefs, people of Greek heritage in those times regarded cooking as demeaning work.

Nonetheless, a man of his own convictions, Pete came to the United States in 1971 and was taken under the wing of a chef who owned a popular steakhouse in New York City. This mentor guided Gialias until he was able to purchase his first cafe in North Summit, New Jersey. His achievements led him to a bigger restaurant venture, which he successfully nurtured then sold at a handsome profit, enabling him to acquire the Clinton House in Clinton, New Jersey. With his knowledge and zeal he turned this modest business into the multimillion-dollar eatery that he continues to own and operate today.

In April of this year another restaurant opportunity knocked and Gialias opened the doors of the 350-seat Logan Inn where he has taken command of the kitchen. His wife Mary Ann joined the enterprise and handles the finances while his son Nick ambitiously masters the restaurant’s front.

Pete’s mantra has always been, “There is no substitute for quality,” and applies that rule to the food served at the Logan. Not wanting to sound presumptuous, I might add that he also believes in magnitude when it comes to portioning everything he serves. There is no appetite that cannot be satisfied here.

On our first visit my husband ordered the prime rib, a generous, tender slab of fine, juicy Western beef. The filet I ordered rare was a decadent 8-ounce thick melt-in-your-mouth round that almost mooed and could have easily yielded to a butter knife.

Our second dining experience was a seafood feast starting with plump, briny toneck clams on the half shell and mammoth shrimp fished from the waters off Guyana. Next came Russian king crab legs, (yes Russian, the chef touts their superiority over the Alaskan variety) four long succulent, sweet legs taken from the meatier top portion of the crustacean’s appendages, which overhung the plate. Two Maryland lump crab cakes consisted of jumbo lump crabmeat bound by an airy mixture of light cream, shallots and peppers yet had to weigh at least 12 ounces total. I did mention that the portions were generous didn’t I? Accompanying vegetables are simply prepared and copious and a house salad is included with entrees.

Luscious pastry desserts are brought in daily from the owner’s bakery while other offerings like tiramisu are made on the premises. Either way you choose, your sweet tooth will be well sated. We ordered bread pudding that was bathed in a silky sauce made with Bailey’s Irish Cream, and a strawberry Napoleon built with layers of flaky pastry, cream, and sliced ripe strawberries, heavenly and light believe it or not.

Diners used to big city steak and seafood houses will find prices at the Logan Inn comparable. Others may perceive the tariffs as princely sums but only until the food arrives. The value is evident. The wine list is relatively small but well chosen with a nice selection of California, French, and Italian wines predominantly priced to sell.

The Logan Inn is open for cocktails, lunch, and dinner 7 days a week. There is also an appetizing bar menu for those inclined to graze. You may choose to be seated in a number of smartly appointed dining rooms, casual or formal, the tavern, or on the outdoor terrace where you can watch the world go by right in the heart of this charming little river town.

Chef Gialias appears to fit like a hand in glove at the Logan together with satisfied diners. He
left our table with one word, “yamas,” a Greek toast meaning to your health. We wish him and his new restaurant the same.

The Logan Inn is located at the corner of Main and Ferry Streets in New Hope, Pa. Reservations may be made for both dining and lodging at 215-862-2300 or by visiting their web site www.loganinn.com. Dining reservations are also accepted through opentables.com.